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    The Gaelic word for festival, a fleadh, is a rowdy celebration of traditional Irish music and dancing. Dozens of fleadhs take place across Ireland each year, with the largest being the annual summer event Fleadh Cheoil, which is held in a different town or city each year.

    In 2022, it is being hosted by Mullingar from July 31 to August 7.

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    At this event, singers, musicians, and dancers compete for medals, much of the music is free, and the atmosphere is refreshingly uncommercial.

    Meanwhile, Ennis, the chief town of County Clare, is a great place to hear music at any time in its half-dozen music pubs.

    Nearby Doolin, originally a fishing village, has a cluster of three famous music pubs and has long been better known for music than for fish.

    For a more formal approach, seek out West Cork Music’s Masters of Tradition Festival in Bantry in August.

    Brilliant fiddle-player, Martin Hayes, whose music has lifted the traditional scene to new heights, usually performs and is also artistic director of the program, part of which takes place in historic Bantry House.

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